‘Cheese wheel pasta’ comes to Newcastle at Lock’s Paddock

CURED meats and “theatrical” cheese wheel pasta are among the dishes on offer at the newest addition to the Newcastle East dining scene, Lock’s Paddock. The restaurant, operated by couple Rebecca and Nick Sullivan, officially opened its doors on Tuesday, specialising in charcuterie-style plates and two signature pasta dishes which earned a cult following at Chester White Cured Diner in Potts Point, the restaurant Nick and Rebecca co-owned for seven years prior to Lock’s Paddock. Now based in Newcastle after moving from Bondi two years ago, the couple has brought the best of Chester White’s menu to Lock’s Paddock. Inspired by Spanish and Italian flavours, dishes are designed to be shared, including cured meat plates, small and large share plates, empanadas and sides. And as for those famous pasta dishes? The carbonara with mushroom, speck and fusilli pasta ($ 26) and cacio e pepe with truffle pecorino and spaghetti ($ 26) are both mixed and served fresh to diners at their table, the latter of which is served from a giant cheese wheel. It’s a simple, traditional dish but done with a little bit of theatre that has proved a big hit at Chester White. “The carbonara and spaghetti in the cheese wheel are our two signature dishes and will probably be the two that people love most,” Nick says. “It’s quite theatrical because we come out from the kitchen with the big cheese wheel and serve it at the table. “It’s an old Roman dish and is actually peasant food, so it is a very traditional, simple dish that is just salt and pepper, olive oil, parsley and the cheese. The spaghetti goes in, the chef mixes it, we bring it to the table as the cheese melts through the pasta, serve it out and then that wheel goes back to the kitchen.” For the carbonara, the dish is brought to the table deconstructed before it is mixed together and served from a big stainless-steel wok. Gluten-free pasta is available and there is also a children’s menu, as well as vegan and vegetarian options. The majority of the menu is freshly made in-house, including hand-rolled ricotta and parmesan gnocchi with a choice of mixed mushroom ragu ($ 26) or speck, peas and lemon ($ 26). A handpicked wine menu highlighting varieties from Spain, France and Italy is the perfect accompaniment. “The venue I had in Sydney is a very ‘locals’ place and we want this to be the same,” Nick says. “We have priced it so that you can come here any time, we don’t want it to be a special occasion restaurant. We just want to offer good, wholesome food.” Previously home to Oma’s Kitchen, the space has been given a complete overhaul, with a bar area that offers a view of the kitchen while you eat, as well as smaller tables and a large one at the centre. Cured meats are strung from the bar area, while Akubra-style hats and wine bottles displayed horizontally on racks line the rustic timber-panelled walls. Aesthetically, the interiors tie together a little bit of everything they love. “We are both big fans of the country, just being outdoors, and Rebecca has ridden horses all of her life,” Nick says. “We love Spanish and Italian history and food, but we also have a big interest in Americana history. It’s a combination of all the things we are into.” The aesthetics also fit with the name of the restaurant which is taken from the once vast land on King Street that is home to the heritage-listed residence Miss Porter’s House. In the early 1900s, mares and stallions lived on the paddock which, over time, had to make way for the growing cityscape. It’s a piece of Newcastle’s history that intrigued Rebecca and Nick. “Lock’s Paddock really stuck with us. It was a stonemason yard and housed a lot of horses. We thought that lent itself to our restaurant because we are a paddock-driven menu. We always wanted to make sure we included Newcastle in some way with the name.”