Acne, whether mild or severe, is a source of agony for many—making the quest to find the best acne treatment something of a beauty holy grail. For some, the search has felt more urgent in recent days with the rise of “maskne,” or acne that arises with the use of face masks to protect against the spread of the coronavirus. Beauty editor Hallie Gould, a usually breakout-free individual, says that she noticed breakouts the first day she wore her mask for a long period of time, and it worsened when she wore it on warmer days. “Dirt, debris, natural oils, and dead skin cells can accumulate on your face mask, inviting bacteria that cause breakouts to linger on your skin and clog pores,” explains D.C.-based celebrity esthetician Sarah Akram who counts Angela Bassett, Sienna Miller, and Billy Porter as clients.
Dermatologist Joshua Zeichner adds that “direct friction can disrupt the outer skin layer, leading to loss of hydration, inflammation, and irritation. Masks also trap humidity, oil, and sweat on the skin and can lead to acne or rosacea flares.” He recommends having more than one mask handy and washing them consistently. “Use a fragrance-free and dye-free detergent, as you are more at risk for developing allergies if the wrong detergent is used.”
In general, acne stems from an unbalanced body, “an upset in the digestive tract or hormonal system,” says beloved New York City esthetician Vicki Morav. Dermatologist Dr. Robin Schaffran would agree: “Add a heaping scoop of stress, and you’ve got the perfect recipe for irritation and breakouts.”
In addition to minimizing the use of makeup to prevent breakouts overall, dermatologist Catherine Chang offers a reminder to wash your face morning and night, before and after use of the mask. “Use a gentle cleanser as your skin will already be irritated,” she adds. And of course, don’t forget to moisturize: “Think of your moisturizer as a protective seal over the skin that serves as a barrier between the skin and the mask,” Dr. Zeichner says.
Here are 13 of the best acne treatments, approved by skin experts, whether you’re dealing with maskne or hormonal- or stress-driven acne.
Balm Labs ClearBalm Trio
Dr. Schaffran recommends Balm Labs’ ClearBalm line, as it isn’t irritating or overly drying like most acne products. This is important, especially when dealing with other adult skin issues like fine lines.
Emma Hardie Moringa Light Cleansing Gel
This cleanser rebalances nourishment in dry, stripped, acne-prone skin with its vitamin E, grapeseed, and sweet almond oils. Gould has found that it’s helped calm mask-induced acne breakouts, along with a muslin cloth “for a soft exfoliating” that removes dead skin cells from the face.
Vicki Morav White Magic
White Magic is a healing powder formula filled with high levels of amino acids, minerals, and enzymes. Add a pea-sized amount of moisturizer of choice, and it becomes the perfect acne spot treatment while promoting anti-aging with its collagen and elasticity-improving ingredients.
Huron Cleanse & Exfoliate Face Wash
“While women take the prize of battling hormonal breakouts in their adult years, men also experience fluctuating hormone levels,” Dr. Schaffran notes. Plus, “men can have oil and dirt can get trapped in the beard, which we know can become contaminated with bacteria, and theoretically viruses as well,” adds Dr. Zeichner. This makes it super important for men and women alike to cleanse their faces thoroughly, especially after mask use and if you have a beard. Zeichner suggests Huron’s face wash that’s filled with bamboo powder and fruit enzymes to polish and exfoliate dead skin cells. Meanwhile, prickly pear extract and aloe soothe, calm, and condition irritated skin.
Paula’s Choice Daily Skin Clearing Treatment
This skin-clearing treatment fights redness and prevents future acne with healing plant extracts and benzoyl peroxide. The hydrating, oil-free formula also prevents excess oils from forming on the skin.
Poly Go LED Light
Akram’s favorite treatment for acne is a combination of blue and red LED light therapy. “Blue LED light can actually kill bacteria that cause acne. Red LED technology—which was invented by NASA—helps your cells to heal and regenerate much faster than normal.” Putting these two innovations together “is the best acne treatment,” Akram says. The Poly Go tool is her go-to.
Biologique Recherche Lotion P40 1970
Biologique Recherche’s lotion “is a powerful exfoliating toner that purifies and refines pores and rebalances skin,” says Akram. “It’s usually where I start with clients who regularly suffer from breakouts.” Morav also cites it as an essential in her acne-fighting approach, as it “contains a special blend of acids that gently exfoliate the skin, purify and shrink enlarged pores, regulate oil production, and rebalance the pH of the skin.” The rare onion extract leaves the skin feeling hydrated. Gould now has it in her maskne defense regime as her “shining star product.”
MBR Enzyme Cleansing Booster
Morav recommends mixing this powdery, fruit-enzyme-rich formula with a few drops of water to instantly dissolve impurities and remove dead skin cells, while optimally prepping the skin for the following step in your routine.
Z. Bigatti Re-Storation Skin Treatment
Be sure to follow exfoliants with a rejuvenating moisturizer. This formula provides cell turnover, nourishment, and protection to the skin. It is also anti-aging and rebalances texture and protects the skin against damaging elements—a perfect barrier between your skin and a face mask.
Dr. Barbara Sturm Calming Serum
The name says it all: This is a calming, milky-textured formula that is anti-inflammatory and acne-fighting. It helps to build the skin’s barrier and strengthens its defense against harsh elements.
SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore
“I like using a moisturizer that has ceramides in the lotion as that helps to form a protective barrier on the skin and prevents moisture loss,” says Dr. Chang. SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid is her favorite: “It’s very moisturizing without being heavy or clogging the pores.”
ZO Skin Health Complexion Renewal Pads
Dr. Chang applies these nightly, “after I wash my face and before I apply my skin care regimen. It’s great for oily skin, as it reduces oil production, as well as calms and soothes the skin.” Salicylic acid is infused to help treat acne, and glycolic acid “leads to glowing skin.”
Fresh Soy Cleanser
This cleanser doesn’t foam, making it perfect for dry and sensitive skin. Amino acid-rich soy, cucumber, and rose water are there to soothe, while borage seed oil restores hydration.